On Monday I headed to the last day of the Taste food festival with Prof D and our two baby girls. Anticipation (or was it impatience) was palpable as we spent an hour on the Florence circonvallazione stuck, hungry, in a marmellata di traffico. Making this Florentine event not disimilar to one in London before we had even got there.
All comparisons with UK food shows were discarded as we entered. €10 entry plus the sensible idea of €5 for a wine glass to do your sampling with and we were in. The event was housed in a large disused station to the West of the historic centre. The layout was clean and accessible and the decoration elegant. The dark walls and counters were artfully lit to emphasise the food. Similar shows in the UK would be all bright strip lights with every bit of discarded salami and oil smear illuminated for all to see. They do aesthetics well these Italians.
Nearly all the exhibitors on show had something for us to taste, so we moved from hams and cheeses, to oil and vinegars, beers and wine, spumante with edible silver, dense chocolate cakes, walnut liquor, truffle pates, cured lard, and on and on. Each producer willing us to taste and to talk us through what it was we were trying.
As an aside, I seem to have unwittingly perfected an expression that tells the viewer that I know exactly what they are talking about; that I understand every word. This is of course, rarely the case. I think I need to reclaim the dumb foreigner look. 'Speak slowly signore; sono straniero!'
However, for this event, explanations were translated (into upstate Noo Yawk) in full by Prof D. Leaving us only with the problem of how to taste everything without completely destroying our palates. A tough and unenviable situation to be in I'm sure you'll agree.
The first great product we tried was nduja a spiced spreadable pork sausage from Spilinga. Unctuous. We then went on to truffle pate on a stand that had a covered glass dish with a few thousand Euros worth just flaunting themselves. 'No you can't buy us! Smell, yes. But we are too expensive! And besides, we are not for sale and your English palates are no match for our Tuscan earthiness. Va via!'.
The truffle pate of course gave me truffle burps(*) which are just not the thing to have at a cool Italian food fare. It made the smoked trout taste funny too. Here was an opportunity to tell a producer that I used to do what he does now. We could be friends! But my Italian failed me. What is the Italian for 'I used to smoke fish too until I left my job to come and change nappies in Florence'?
On the next stretch of counter we sampled some truly glorious salame. I mean really good. Senza preservatives, soft, meaty, er complex, erm... ....mouth feel? Erm. Good. So I took the card and made a note to buy some in the shop......which of course didn't have any.
A couple more legs and we were ready for lunch. Readers who frequent food shows in the UK will be pleased to know that the canteen here was as mediocre and uninspiring as at home. Relatively I mean. In that, the food here was not dissimilar to an ordinary cafe in Florence. But an ordinary cafe in florence is of course way better than an ordinary cafe in the UK. Why don't these shows organise catering with their producers who are exhibiting? Is it that difficult?
That said, my panino was good and we left the chic white leathered dining area in a state commensurate with having been occupied by a 2 year old and a one year old. And scarpered.
Hitting the hard trail of the show again we moved, as if beckoned, to the start of the artisanal beer section. Now, if there is one thing that I am missing food wise in Florence, it is beer. I'm not saying that nice beer can't be found here (these guys sell good beer) but you have to search it out and there is certainly no flat warm beer from casks. Proper beer. Well kept, if you will. But the people occupying the beer section were generous in their attempts to prove me wrong. There were stouts, lagers, wheat beers, pale ales, coffee and chocolate beers (never a good thing), and more. Of the two I bought was one that was, somewhat inevitably, referred to as 'tipo Inglese'. 'Ah, that's why I liked it'. Good as it was/is, it is also the most expensive beer I have ever bought (piss-water in various dodgy nightclubs excluded).
From here we had coffee, cake, truly wonderful chocolates, biscotti, and silver leaf in a cup with spumante. (I have no idea).
After we'd reached the last stand and the last notch on our belts we headed to the shop where I turned down the tin of tuna for €28 (still, if it's bluefin they'll all be gone soon) and bought beer, chocolate, cake, something called tarese that looks like bacon, more beer, coffee, more chocolate and bresaola.
The chocolate, which I didn't taste on the way round the show has been a real revelation. I am very keen on salted chocolate and this stuff has 'Sale Dolce di Cervia'. Something that was completely unknown to me and works so well in chocolate.
So, a great day discovering and tasting new things. If you are coming to Florence next year, I'd recommend a visit to the show. Whether I can persuade Dr B that it would be good for us to fly in for it, I don't know.....
[* - Dr B just read this through for me and remarked that Prof D had told her about truffle burps at the Villa today. In the evening after the show Prof D had gone to his usual jujitsu class where, after a hard workout, he took a shower. On leaving the shower he released a large belch which he and his fellow athletes admired for it's truffle aroma.]
Thursday, 18 March 2010
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